I don't get it. Lots of people use Micro Engineering turnouts with fantastic results. They really look great with their small hinged points and lack of rivets. But, they are also extremely fragile. And sometimes warped and defective, though that in my limited experience is only with the code 83 RH switches. The code 83 LH and code 70 RH and LH seem to be fine. Wouldn't you know that the last switch I installed on my layout was a RH code 83 switch, and it seemed to have problems. The points don't like to switch back and forth, as if they are binding on something. And if you slide the throwbar slightly forward or back the the ends of the point rails fall out of the rail joiners that are acting as hinges. Very frustrating.
I installed the switch and mounted the Tortoise underneath it and it moved okay back and forth, but I could tell that the throwbar was binding. In trying to see what was causing the problem the throwbar fractured apart. In disgust, I took a picture and then ripped the whole thing out. Within 10 minutes I had a Peco code 83 RH switched ordered online and on its way to me. I am not sure if their #6 geometry is the exact same as the M.E. geometry so I might need to trim the ends differently or add some other pieces of track to make it fit. On the plus side, it took a lot of willing and stabbing with a putty knife but the Tortoise machine came off pretty off without damage.I had hoped to have trains running by the end of May. The impact of this remains to be seen. Even more alarming, though, is that I might have this failure occur on my other M.E. switches. I don't plan to ballast my track until it has been extensively tested, at which time I might have to replace more of the switches. I wish now I had just gone with Peco. Everyone only has good things to say about them.
I feel your pain. With all the advances in motive power and freight car detailing and electronics in the hobby every track system still seems to have something not quite right about - it's a matter of what you want to compromise - appearance or operation?
ReplyDeleteThey're designed to be hand thrown - which is why they have the springs - but it seems to take a lot of resistance to overcome the spring tension.
One thing not clear - did you remove the spring from the ME turnouts before installing the Tortoise?
I found any time I installed a Tortoise (or Blue Point) on a ME turnout without removing the spring I'd eventually have trouble. The rail joiner "hinges" and the way the points are secured to the throwbar on the turnout seem prone to issues.
Only way to get them to work effectively with Tortoises seems to be removing the ME springs from the turnout and adjusting the throw distance on the switch motor wire so it's moving the points just enough - but not too far.
Marty,
ReplyDeleteYes, I removed the internal springs. Still, I have had problems. Today, while cutting down the Tortoise throw wire I managed to damage a different switch's throwbar. Part of the issue might be that I am using thicker wire than came with the Tortoise machines, but that was because they were really hard to move. Once you drill out the hole in the throwbar for the thicker wire, there isn't a lot of meat left around the hole.
I am thinking of ripping out all of the Tortoises and going straight to ground throws and a Frog Juicer.